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Category: food
Kres Chophouse, Orlando
A little pricey, but delicious and worth it. We ate here before seeing Venus in Fur at Mad Cow Theatre.
It was a good production at a consistently good theatre … and I don’t just say that because the lead actress spends most of the play strutting about in stockings and a corset …
Not that that hurts …
Dinner started with the K.R.E.S. cocktail, Vodka, Raspberries, Elderflower, Islay, Citrus, Soda. ($9)
Very tasty and just what I needed after a long week of work.
Lobster bisque ($8) to start, and good enough that I was halfway finished with mine before I remembered to take a picture.
I opted for the elk loin ($35) … actually the first time I’ve had elk.
The jus wasn’t necessary, as the elk was tender, juicy, and flavorful. Not a bit gamy and more tender than most steaks. I was very pleased with the choice.
My companion had the filet ($34).
It was bigger than it looks in the picture.
For sides we had Brussels sprouts ($8) and vegetables ($7).
To my taste, the vegetables were very good and the sprouts were okay (maybe a bit underseasoned).
All in all, a really good dinner and I’d return.
Atlanta – Othello and Stone Mountain
10/4/2013 – 10/6/2013 Miles MPG Average Speed 950 44 59 Driving listening:
10/4/2013 – 10/6/2013
Priceline Retail $ Savings % Savings Hilton Downtown (4-stars) $62.41
($50 bid)$ 178.08 ($159 pretax)
$115.67 65% This hotel had some mixed reviews. Reviewers called the decor “dated”, complained that they smelled marijuana in the hallway and in their room, and one review claimed they were given a room without a bed.
I was quite happy with it. The decor was a bit older and some of the fixtures were clearly older, but it was clean, well-appointed, comfortable, and, at $50 / night, the view of the $69.99 Motel 6 next door was entertaining.
The hotel does charge $25 / day for parking, which is ridiculous, so I parked at the Emory Hospital lot. It’s only 1/2-mile away and costs $6 / day, or $0 if you leave early before they have the booth manned.
That lot is also right across the street from Shakespeare Tavern where we were going to see Othello.
I do not recommend the route above, which Google Maps came up with. Instead, get to Peachtree St NE immediately and stay off of Pine St NE. Pine St, especially in the early evening, has a certain uncomfortable element to it.
Dining
Ray’s has several locations around Atlanta. The one downtown is nicely appointed and we arrived for dinner well before it became crowded. I started with Ray’s “New Orleans” BBQ Shrimp ($12) and I was a bit disappointed with it. Like many attempts at the New Orleans style of BBQ shrimp, this had more heat than flavor.
The portion size, for the price, seemed quite small, as well.
For an entree, I had the Parmesan Crusted Scallops ($32) which came with “Lobster risotto, basil, balsamic reduction”.
With this, also, I was underwhelmed. $32 for four scallops is a bit high and even with the Parmesan crusting, they seemed flavorless. The risotto was extremely salty, with not even a hint of lobster flavor.
The praline bowl I got for desert was better, with a crunchy bowl, praline sauce, ice cream, and berries. But it wasn’t enough to make up for the previous courses and I left disappointed.
Entertainment
We went to Stone Mountain during the day and rode the tram to the top. The day was hazy and bright, so pictures were a bit washed out.
After some time at the top, we took the mile-long path down the mountain and then around it to the parking lot.
Next trip I want to hike around the mountain and then up and down.
Atlanta–Hamlet, Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead, Christopher Titus
6/6/2013 – 6/9/2013 Miles MPG Average Speed 1100 46 54 Driving listening:
6/6/2013 – 6/9/2013
Priceline Retail $ Savings % Savings Marriott Atlanta Airport (4-star) $58.61
($48 bid)$94.08
($84 pretax)$35.47 38% The bidding for this trip put me in the Marriott across the street from the Westin I’d stayed at last time. They’re both nice hotels at the right price, but I haven’t been thrilled with the area – it’s pretty empty of anything but a few hotels and warehouses. So next trip I’ll likely spend a bit more for downtown or the areas north of Atlanta.
The point of staying so far out is to avoid the parking charges, but both of these hotels have the same parking rates as downtown hotels. Downtown, if I’m willing to walk a couple blocks, I can put my car at the Emory hospital parking lot across from Shakespeare Tavern for a third of the hotels’ parking rate.
This trip was a little different, because I was in town mostly to see three shows, so I did little during the days – other than one visit to the High Museum, I just relaxed at the hotel, reading and using the gym.
Dining
On the way to Atlanta (and again on the way home), I stopped for lunch at Smok’n Pig BBQ in Valdosta, GA. I’ve seen their billboards on previous trips, but never stopped before – now it’ll probably become my lunch on every trip in or out of Florida on I-75. I was a little worried when I first stopped, because the décor is reminiscent of the Sonny’s BBQ chain, with a large, shiny dining room in a huge building with a salad bar. They do have two locations, Valdosta and Macon, but there’s nothing “chain” about the food.
On both stops I got the sliced pork sandwich combo ($8). The pork was tender and lean, generously piled on a soft bun. I tried three different sauces: sweet, sweet & spicy, and original. Of the three, I thought the original was best, with even the sweet & spicy being a bit too sweet for me.
For sides, I got baked beans, Brunswick stew, and, on the return trip, sweet potato casserole. The beans were pretty basic, but the sweet potato casserole was very good and the stew was excellent. The Brunsick stew itself is enough to get a return visit from me.
On Friday and Saturday, I ate at a pair of restaurants because I’d read somewhere that the owners had originally been partners in one place, then each opened their own. BBQ being a competitive sport, I decided to try both and compare them.
Both places are storefronts in stripmalls – about the same size, with reviews, plaques, and porcine-topped trophies proudly displayed. It’s clear that both owners take their BBQ seriously
At Dave Poe’s, I got brisket ($9), with baked beans, mac & cheese, and Texas toast. At Sam’s, I got brisket, with baked beans, sweet tater tots, and Texas toast, but I also added a corn muffin. Dave Poe’s brisket was perfectly cooked. It was sliced unevenly, some thicker than others, but that was almost irrelevant, as the slices were fork-tender and shredded easily. The sauce was thin, sweet and spicy, with a strong black-pepper flavor. Sam’s served two distinct briskets on my plate. On the right was a lean flat – the left was more marbled. Unfortunately, both were served barely warm, so the marbled slices were quite chewy. The sauce was Advantage: Dave Poe’s The Texas toast lacked any butter, so it was pretty dry and only lightly browned. Sam’s Texas toast was well-buttered and nicely browned. Advantage: Sam’s Poe’s baked beans were thick and sweet, with a slight kick of heat at the finish. Sam’s beans were very thick and sweet, redolent with molasses. Good, but by the end of the meal I was putting only two or three beans on my fork, because it was just too much sweet and molasses. Advantage: Dave Poe’s The mac & cheese. Oh, Our Dear Lord of Dairy, the Dave Poe’s mac & cheese … Not elbow noodles, but huge tubes of pasta that oozed sauce. A sauce that had both a creamy texture that clung to the pasta, and a bit of stringy, chewy cheese that had incredible flavor. The pieces of dark brown mac & cheese crust were perfect.
Sam’s sweet tater tots were interesting, different, and tasty. Made out of sweet potatoes with a sprinkling of cinnamon and sugar. It was some time into the meal, though, before I could appreciate their full flavor, because they were the hottest thing on the plate when it arrived. Clearly they’d plated the brisket, then the beans, and last the fried tots, which is the opposite of what they should have done to ensure everything arrived hot.
Advantage: Dave Poe’s So, on points, it’s Dave Poe’s, but the real test is what’s left on the plate at the end of the meal.
At Sam’s, I left most of the fattier slices of brisket and about half the beans and tater tots – not because I was full (there’s always room for BBQ), but because I just didn’t want any more of the items. I liked Sam’s, I’d return there, but it wasn’t enough to make me keep taking just one more bite.
At Dave Poe’s, I left a corner of the dry Texas toast and a plate wiped clean. If there’d been a scrap more brisket, a drop of sauce, a single bean, or the slightest schmear of mac & cheese sauce … I’d have happily sopped it up with that dry toast.
Entertainment
Thursday and Friday nights I was at Shakespeare Tavern for performances of Hamlet and Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead.
For those unfamiliar with R&G, it follows Rosencrantz and Guildenstern through their roles in Hamlet, but since they’re rather minor characters they spend much of their time “off-stage” (though they don’t know it’s a play) wondering about what it all means and why they seem to be always waiting for something to happen.
Described as an absurdist, existentialist tragicomedy … it’s just weird.
But seeing the two in repertory, with the same cast playing the same characters in both Hamlet and R&G was fun. The actors had the opportunity to perform their characters seriously in Hamlet and then with some comedy in R&G – seeing these on consecutive nights really heightened that effect.
The entire cast was wonderful, as always, but there were some standouts:
Nicholas Faircloth and Paul Hester as Rosencrantz and Guildenstern (whichever is which) were great in both productions, but especially in R&GaD. These are marathon-roles, since the play, at almost three hours, follows their two characters almost exclusively.
Jonathan Horne as Hamlet. A great performance, subtly different in both productions. I can’t wait to see him next month in Fortinbras, when he gets to play Hamlet as a ghost.
Kelly Criss as Ophelia. Her part in R&G is small, but worth mentioning because it’s not every day an actress gets to walk up stairs and across the stage in a diving mask, snorkel, and swim fins (at Ophelia’s drowning). In Hamlet, she shined, drawing the audience in when Ophelia is crazy.
Next month they’re doing Fortinbras, the “sequel” to Hamlet, when all the dead characters get to come back as ghosts and pester the Norwegian Prince who came to rule Denmark by showing up.
Saturday was Christopher Titus at the Punchline. The show was hilarious and all new material. If you’re not familiar with his shows, check YouTube for excerpts – he’s a brilliant comedian.
Fort Myers
5/17/13 – 5/18/13 Miles MPG Average Speed 458 44 49 Driving listening:
5/17/13 – 5/18/13 Priceline Retail $ Savings % Savings Crowne Plaza Fort Myers (3.5 star) $68.81
($58 bid)$104.16
($93 base rate)$35.35 34% Friday
I drove down early Friday and was on the Sanibel causeway by noon to do some kayaking (details on my kayaking blog).
After kayaking I was very hungry. Runkeeper said I burned 1100 calories on that paddle, but Runkeeper can’t take into account the wind and currents. I’m thinking the mile and a half from the point to the causeway into strong winds and out-going tide counts as 3x. So I felt entirely justified in having a big dinner.
Lee Roy Selmon’s is a southwest Florida chain, and I prefer to avoid chains when traveling, but it had a big advantage when it came up in the Urbanspoon app’s random selector: It was really, really close to my hotel. After 8-miles of paddling and the discovery
that my sunscreen was defective, I was not in the mood to drive far. I wanted pretty good food, close by, and a lot of it. The second advantage was that it was Happy Hour.
The server brought me some BBQ rolls to start. These are warm, tasty, yeast rolls covered in butter, garlic, and BBQ sauce.
These were really good and I followed them with soft pretzels and cheese sauce with bacon ($3 for Happy Hour).
Good pretzels covered in coarse, crunchy salt. The cheese sauce was a little thin, but good. And for the entrée, I had their pulled pork with sides of baked beans and maple-bacon creamed corn.
The beans were really good, sweet with a hint of molasses, but they also had green peppers, which I’m not fond of. The creamed corn was good, but a little too sweet – which is an unusual thing for me to say. It’s normally served with the fried chicken and waffles, so that may be why – I think the maple syrup is overused, making it too sweet and thin, but it could go well with the fried chicken and waffles.
The pork itself was excellent and the sauce was a good compliment – sweet and sticky, without being overpowering. It was well-trimmed, with very little fat.
For dessert, I got the bread pudding with praline sauce and ice cream to-go and ate it back at the hotel.
So after an eight-hour paddle that afternoon, I was discovering that 1) I was out of shape and starting to hurt, and, B) my sunscreen had expired and I was the proud owner of a nasty, if oddly shaped, sunburn. So I stopped by the front desk sundry shop to get some pain killers … only to find that they were out of stock until Monday. Well, not entirely out of stock.
The three girls working the front desk assured me it would be effective and have no ill-effects.
“I hate Nassau and the Bahamas. It’s one of those places I’d always wanted to visit since reading Ian Fleming but it was full of casinos with Americans in shorts.”–Tony Parsons
No driving, no Priceline, just a three-day cruise to The Bahamas on the Carnival Sensation.
I’d been promising the girl-child a cruise for quite a while, but she didn’t have a passport and I could swear that I’d heard you need a passport or passport-card now. But I found I was wrong and you can still cruise with a birth certificate if you’re sailing from/to the same port.
So I booked the cruise and gave her the option of inviting a friend along – she picked her boyfriend. Yeah … three nights in a small cabin with my daughter and her boyfriend … thank god for the Fun Ship Special:
In all fairness, he seems like a decent guy and it worked out well. They went off and did their thing, leaving me free to relax and enjoy myself instead of worrying about her being entertained.
Other than dinner the last night and some time in the cabin, I saw very little of the two of them.
We met up at my place around 12:00 Thursday and drove over to Port Canaveral. With much less waiting than I’ve had on previous cruises, we were onboard and, yes, I picked up my first Fun Ship Special within twenty feet of the gangway.
We left port and there’s not a lot to write about a cruise. Pretty good food – and a lot of it. Shows, casino, and fruity-rum drinks – which maybe they’d had too many of when they decided on the description of this show:
So Thursday night was a nice dinner – a duck appetizer served on spicy glass noodles, followed by a pork steak; a couple shows; and some time in the casino.
Friday we arrived in Nassau – the last of the arrivals as Carnival Fantasy, Disney Dream, and Norwegian Epic were already in port when we got there.
Epic is one of the ways I’m considering for a trip to London next October or April (2014). Round-trip airfare, Orlando to London, is around $1000 – but Epic repositions between Miami and Barcelona those months. When I checked for this year’s 4/20 sailing, it was $399 / person for an inside cabin – 11-days, Miami to Barcelona; $50 on Ryan Air from Barcelona to London; and $600 one-way from London to Orlando … even with a few hundred for taxes and fees, that’s pretty close to just airfare, but you get an 11-day cruise too.
I went into Nassau to do some shopping, including Cariloha bamboo sheets, and visit the pirate museum, while Aryn and Michael went to Atlantis on Paradise Island (formerly Hog Island, which doesn’t work as well for marketing purposes), where Aryn took advantage of the 18-year Bahamian drinking age to get somewhat plastered.
So I returned to the cabin later that day to find my daughter stumbling-drunk with her boyfriend. Thank god for the Fun Ship Special to help me deal with that.
More food, more shows, more drinks, and more time in the casino. Carnival actually has a player-friendly blackjack variant, called Fun 21. The dealer has to hit on soft 17, blackjack pays 2-to-1, and the player wins a tied 21 – all of which are positive-expectations for the player.
So I played some of that and some Let It Ride. Saturday I played both those again, along with some craps and even some roulette. After totaling things up, I was down for the trip, but that can be attributed to heavy tipping and dealer-bets, something I find myself doing more of lately.
I’ll sit down at a table and start placing a $1 bet for the dealer alongside mine, then see how long it takes before others at the table begin doing the same thing. Usually, at a full table, two or three others will soon be placing regular bets for the dealer. It’s an interesting exercise.
More of the same Saturday and then home Sunday morning.
But now I want to take a longer cruise to different ports – I’ve been to Nassau three times now – or maybe one of the all-inclusive resorts.
“In the cherry blossom’s shade there’s no such thing as a stranger.” — Kobayashi Issa
4/10/2013 – 4/14/2013 Miles MPG Average Speed 1810 48 60 A Note About Mileage: I ran a little experiment on this trip. Usually I drive a bit over the speed limit – so around 74 MPH on the 70 MPH stretches of the interstate where traffic is light.
This time I set the cruise control at 65 MPH from Orlando to Savannah – and averaged 53.8 MPG for that stretch.
Driving listening:
4/10/2013 – 4/14/2013 Priceline Retail $ Savings % Savings Inn At Mulberry Grove (2.5-star Savannah) $46.11
$34 bid* * * Sheraton Reston (3.5-star) $43.88
$36 bid + $10 bonus cash$138.88
$124 base rate$95 68% * I’m not counting any savings for the Inn at Mulberry Grove. As I describe below, the hotel was so bad that I can’t view it as a bargain.
Dining
Panera J. Christopher’s Luke’s Lobster
Wednesday
Wednesday was a travel day – I left town after work to drive part of the way to DC, planning to stop in Savannah for the night and have a shorter drive on Thursday.
So normally I wouldn’t even right anything about Wednesday, but I had dining and hotel experiences so bizarre and unacceptable, that I decided to relate them. If you don’t want to read my complaints, just skip to Thursday.
After a while, I looked at the time and saw that it was 7:27, so I pulled out my receipt and checked it. When I saw the time on the receipt was 7:01, I actually assumed their register was wrong. A few minutes later, I walked up to the pass where they were delivering the food and saw that they had an expediting screen that listed ticket numbers and how long they’d been waiting. My ticket was #13 and I’d been waiting thirty-seven minutes.
So I went back to my table and stood there for a bit, watching the pass. Food was coming out and no one else had been waiting as long as I had. I was more curious as to how this had happened and what would happen next at this point. When servers picked up food, they checked the screen – I assume to find which table a guest was sitting at – so I was really curious as to how no one had figured out that someone had waited thirty-seven minutes.
After a bit, I went back to the pass and took a picture of the screen, because I figured no one would ever believe that I’d waited forty-five minutes for food at a freakin’ Panera Bread, and went back to my table which was quite near the pass.
At this point, one of the servers saw me take the picture and I heard him point this out to the manager and tell him that I’d taken a picture of the screen.
Now, put yourself in this manager’s position. You’ve just been told that a customer in your store has been waiting for forty-five minutes and took a picture of the screen that proves that. What do you do?
A) Immediately go to the customer’s table and apologize for the wait, assuring them that they’ll receive their food shortly.
B) Send the guy who pointed it out to you, whose job is to drop off full plates and pick up empty plates, to apologize to the, probably irritated, customer.
If you chose B, then you’ve been to the same customer service school as this guy.
I thanked the server for telling me, assured him that I didn’t think it was his fault, and told him that I would like to speak to the manager. I watched as he returned to the pass and told the manager this.
Now, put yourself in this manager’s position. The customer who’s been waiting forty-five minutes for food as specifically asked to speak to you. What do you do?
A) Immediately go to the customer’s table and apologize.
B) Wait until the customer’s food is ready, deliver it yourself, and apologize.
C) Stay behind the pass and send the server to tell the customer you’ll refund his money, visit him soon, and his food will be out shortly.
Do I have to tell you? Yeah, C.
So a few minutes later (at the fifty-eight minute mark), the server brought my food. I thanked him for it and he told me the manager would be coming. So I ate my food.
When I had finished, I had still not spoken to the manager. I stood up – he was still working at the pass. I looked around and decided that $12.50 was not worth the time it would take me to walk over there, get his attention, and get the refund – especially when he had made it rather clear that what he was up to was far more important than dealing with me. So I left.
Once on the road, I called the store and asked to speak to a manager. The woman who had answered told me she was the manager and I became confused – I’d thought the guy at the pass was the manager. Maybe I had misjudged things.
I explained to her what had happened and found out that they had two managers working. I was … shocked. Two managers on duty and neither had bothered to come to my table? Wow.
She explained that she hadn’t known about the situation and the other manager was very busy, but she was sorry and would be happy to refund my money. I explained that after waiting an hour and facing a long drive, I had left because I didn’t want to spend more time on the issue.
So, next management training quiz. A customer has just called you, told you they waited an hour for food, had taken a picture of the expediting screen at forty-five minutes, asked to speak to the manager and then waited twenty minutes without getting to speak to one, and left rather than waiting for a refund because he had a long drive. Do you?
A) Apologize again and ask for his address so you can refund him via a gift card.
B) Say you can understand him not waiting and reiterate that you didn’t know about the situation and the other manager was very busy.
Just … wow.
So let me make it clear: I was more amused than angry at waiting an hour for my food. If the manager had showed up when it was pointed out to him and apologized, I’d have had a good laugh with him about it. I waited fifty-eight minutes for food at Panera Bread … come on, that’s funny!
But he didn’t know that. Most people would have been irate. A lot of people would have been spitting-pissed at that long a wait. And he sent some poor kid out to deal with that possibility.
Dealing with your store’s mistake is the job of the manager, not the kid picking up dishes. And with two managers on duty, there is no excuse whatsoever for one of them not to be dealing with the issue. Unacceptable.
Anyway, I got back on the road and headed for Savannah. I’d booked the hotel in Savannah only that morning – up until then I’d been trying to get a room somewhere in South Carolina for the night, but couldn’t find anything at my price point. I switched to Savannah, figuring I could get a pretty good deal near the airport again and wound up with something off I95 at Savannah North.
I arrived at the Inn at Mulberry Grove a bit before 11:00 PM and checked in. After 10:00 PM the front desk is behind protective glass, which did not give me a warm-fuzzy about the neighborhood – but they did have a young girl working the desk, apparently alone, so I can understand wanting to be safe.
Along with the keycard came the TV remote … I’ve never seen that before, but apparently it’s how they keep track of how many rooms they have left. Okay.
The first thing I noticed about the room was that it had an odor. Nothing really identifiable, but vaguely unpleasant. I was disappointed, but knew I’d get used to it in a few minutes, so not that big a deal – then I drew back the bedcovers and noticed some dark stains through the sheet, so I pulled that back too.
I can understand not being able to get juice stains out – but maybe put them at the foot of the bed? (I didn’t check that – afraid.) And, yeah, the yellow stains maybe mean it should be replaced. I checked the other bed, which half of it was okay, but the pillows …
Between two beds and six pillows, I did manage to find two pillows and half a bed that I wasn’t entirely uncomfortable spending the night with. Yes, I could have gone back to the front desk and complained. That would have taken time – at least half an hour. Go to office, explain, get new key, move bags, return old key and TV remote, etc. If I’d been staying multiple days, then I would have asked to be moved, but could live with it for one night, in favor of getting some sleep before my 6:00 AM wakeup. So I went to take a shower …
My first thought was that a previous guest, so despondent at the thought of sleeping in that bed, had slit his wrists in the tub and grasped the curtain with one bloody, claw-like hand in his final moments.
Then I stepped into the tub and realized that a far more plausible explanation was that a previous guest had simply slipped in the damn thing, split his head open on the side, and left that mark with his final, dying efforts to reach help.
Please note: I have no personal knowledge of death, by suicide or misadventure, at the Inn at Mulberry Place. I merely speculate with the available evidence.
Much as I speculate that the mirror frame in that room has not been cleaned since those damn Yankees sank the CSS Georgia near Old Fort Jackson.
There were a lot of other maintenance issues with the room – chipped paint, wall stains, etc – but these were the worst. I called the hotel Monday when I was home and also emailed them the photos. During the call the manager seemed to be more interested in making this about me not having asked for a change of room that night than addressing what is clearly a fundamental problem with maintenance at her property.
Even after I stated clearly that I wasn’t looking for a refund, she seemed intent on justifying not giving me one. I don’t care about a refund for one night in that hotel – I care that it’s represented as a 2.5-star on Priceline and clearly isn’t deserving of that rating. I care about the possibility of winding up in this hotel next time I go to Savannah. And I care about trying to bring these type of things to a hotel’s attention and being asked if, maybe, the pillow was yellow from bleach stains …
Now, I’m not a chemist, Miss Hotel Manager, but … oh, hell, never mind.
Thursday
By coincidence, my mother and step-father were in Savannah for the week, so I met them for breakfast early the next morning.
healthier; the tomato added the acidic bite that compliments the richness of the Hollandaise; and the bacon … well … it’s bacon. Bacon doesn’t need a reason. This was a really good dish, well-prepared with just the right amount of Hollandaise.
I also tried some of the blueberry-granola pancakes my mom ordered and they were good as well.
Back on the road, I made it to the DC area around 5:00. I was staying in Reston, VA and planning to take the train in to the city. Given the time, I went straight to the station at Dunn-Loring, one stop from the West end of the Orange line.
DC has a wonderful subway system. The trains are clean and comfortable, with padded seats; they run frequently and on-time; and you can virtually anywhere you want to go and be within a couple blocks of your destination when you leave the train.
Thirty-some minutes after getting on the train in Dunn-Loring, after changing to the Red line at Metro Center, I exited at Gallery Place – about 100’ from the entrance to the Verizon Center where the Capitals were about to play the Carolina Hurricanes.
Up I went. Past the 100-level, lower-bowl seats. Past the Club seats, where’d been in Raleigh for the Hurricanes home games there. Past the Skybox level. Past, in fact, everything – to the highest, cheapest seats available, above, even, the freakin’ Jumbotron itself.
The Jumbotron which, ten minutes into the game, displayed the bewildering statistic that the Capitals had managed to play ten minutes, at home, without a single shot on goal!
Not being a particular fan of either team, though, I was able to just enjoy the game and not worry about who won, although I do tend to root for the home team, just because.
After the game it was back to the subway and out to Virginia to get my car and head to the hotel – which the Sheraton was much, much nicer than the Inn at Mulberry Place and only $2 a night more.
Friday
I actually had a purpose other than vacation for this trip, so Friday morning was spent taking care of that, and I wound up getting into the city-proper around noon. I exited the subway at the Farragut West station near Farragut Square.
This is a congregating spot for food trucks and I was hungry for lunch.
Two sides of the Square were bumper-to-bumper with trucks serving food of all kinds. I went with a Korean truck and bulgogi two-ways, regular and spicy.
I chose double-salad instead of salad and kimchi. I’m willing to get a bit more adventurous with my food choices as I age, but I draw the line at recipes that involve burying your jar of cabbage in the ground. Maybe in my fifties.
The food was good. The spicy had both heat and flavor, but the heat wasn’t overwhelming. But after a few bites I was interrupted.
An older woman sat down next to me, mentioned that the food looked good, and asked me which truck I’d gotten it from. I told her and confirmed that it was good, but I could tell from her appearance that she was probably homeless.
We talked for a few minutes about Orlando – her asking if Disney had much different rides than when she’d been there years ago, me mentioning that Orlando had grown a lot and how ridiculous the ticket prices were now. I said that the food was pretty good, but a bit spicy for me, closed the container and put it on the bench beside me.
A few minutes more conversation and I checked the time, made my excuses, and left, leaving the food on the bench. When I looked back from the edge of the park she was eating it, which is pretty sad to think of in our nation’s capital.
I walked toward the Mall, detouring along the front of the White House to see who might be protesting.
There was only the guy who’s been there forever and one other group – so, politics aside, what’s really changed so much from the days when there were crowds of protesters in the park all the time and why aren’t they still there?
Once on the Mall, I walked through the World War II Memorial, headed along the reflecting pool to the Lincoln Memorial. Most people don’t know that everything West of the Washington Monument was originally part of river and swamp – there was a wharf along Constitution Avenue.
They’re doing work on the Monument’s facings with some serious scaffolding.
Say what you will, you will never convince me that these are not the greatest speech ever given by a President.
From the Lincoln Memorial I went through the Vietnam Memorial and then over to the National Academy of Sciences.
The Einstein Memorial outside the NAS is so different from the others in DC, and, having just read a couple biographies of him, I think it would make him smile. The floor in front of him is set with metal buttons in a star map centered on Polaris.
The NAS doesn’t have a lot of exhibits and is as frequented as other places, but they do have some interesting things. Like a map of the technologies necessary to get to the VCR and an example of pre-RADAR aircraft detection.
I crossed the Mall to the Tidal Basin and headed along it toward the Jefferson Memorial. It was a nice walk underneath the cherry trees, which were still mostly in bloom.
I’m probably on a list somewhere for taking a picture of the helicopter …
Back to the Mall, where headed toward the Capital and stopped at the Hirshborn Museum – most of the Hirshborn is modern, but they do have Rodin’s Burgher’s of Callais properly displayed.
Some museums display each of the figures separately, but they’re meant to be together as a single piece.
From the Hirshborn, I went to
my Meccathe Air and Space Museum.That’s not a model … that thing went to the freakin’ Moon. Air and Space is one of the most awesome places in the world.
That’s the beginning of commercial space flight right there, which means it’s the beginning of real, serious travel into space and beyond.
From Air and Space I walked to L’Enfant Plaza and caught the Green line to the Navy Yard-Ballpark station for a Nationals game. I have never before been to a baseball game. I know … but I wasn’t a sports fan growing up and Orlando didn’t have a baseball team anyway.
I had a hot dog and Cracker Jacks because I was at a ballgame. No peanuts except the ones in the Cracker Jacks, though … which the prize in Cracker Jacks kind of sucks these days.
I learned that baseball is the exact opposite of hockey, but it’s interesting enough in a strategic-way for me to want to go to another game. Sitting somewhere other than the outfield, I think.
It definitely is more conducive to socializing than hockey, with the breaks spread out instead of long breaks between periods. And, from what I observed, there’s far more beer consumed … at least in the outfield.
I still think it would be more fun if the players were allowed to check.
Saturday
Back to the Mall early to go to the other Smithsonian buildings. There was a large crowd from the Cherry Blossom Festival going on.
I started in the Natural History Museum for the dinosaurs and the Hope Diamond.
From there I wandered around the Mall for a bit.
And then made a brief stop at the American History Museum to see the Philadelphia gunboat and the Star Spangled Banner. No photos of either due to exhibit restrictions, but worth the visit.
I don’t care much for the tune, but the Star Spangled Banner itself is moving. To fully understand the meaning of what Francis Scott Key wrote about it, you have to understand the context of the time – when lowering the colors (flag) meant surrender of either the ship or fort. For the flag to remain flying while the British ships withdrew meant something for a young country.
From there I had time to go through part of the National Gallery, certainly not all of it, before that night’s hockey game.
Sometimes at work I know just how this guy must feel …
The nice thing about art museums is that they typically have a lot of comfy seating, which makes for nice break. Even gangnam-style.
I got the “Taste of Maine”, which is a sampler consisting of half each lobster, shrimp, and crab rolls.
These are served “Maine-style”, with the bun toasted, just a bit of mayo on the bun, cold seafood, and a lemon butter drizzled over it. Simple and delicious. The crab was the best of the three, with the lobster a close second.
For dessert I had their Cherry Blossom Ice Cream Sandwich – cherry ice cream between chocolate chip cookies.
For entertainment while waiting for the Verizon Center to open for the game, there was these guys outside the Gallery Place subway.
And then another band showed up around the corner.
The Capitals have some odd fans, but I had a better seat for this game.
That’s “Crosby Sucks”, which is taking a rivalry with the Penguins a bit far, in my opinion.
A long way to drive to see Stamkos and the Lightning play, but that’s how it worked out.
After the game, it was back to the hotel for a few hours sleep and then the drive back to Orlando.
Fain would I climb, yet fear I to fall.–Sir Walter Raleigh
4/4/2013 – 4/7/2013 Miles MPG Average Speed Raleigh-Durham, NC 1416 44 56 
Driving listening:
4/4/2013 – 4/7/2013
Priceline Retail $ Savings % Savings Radisson Hotel Research Triangle Park (3.5 star) $51.96 (inc. tax & fees)
Bid: $41 + $10 bonus cash$108.11 (inc. tax) $56.15 52%
Thursday
It was raining at 4:00 AM when I rolled out of bed. Raining at 5:00 AM when I got in the car for the drive to Raleigh. And raining nine hours and six hundred miles later when I pulled into the hotel. A nasty, drizzly rain that came with a temperature drop to the low forties in North Carolina.
Yes, a disgustingly early start, but I had a ticket to the hockey game at 7:00 that night and didn’t want to be late.
I checked into the hotel and settled into the room for a brief rest before the game. I don’t usually say much about the hotels unless there’s a problem, so consider this foreshadowing.
The hotel’s older and used to be The Governor’s Inn, hence the suite next to my room.
I actually doubt that he stayed there, considering the rather nice house he has about twenty minutes away.
In the room I found the typical flyers and handouts waiting for me, along with a rather stern pamphlet warning me not to steal the towels and giving the price of virtually everything in the room should it turn up missing after checkout. Now, a lot of hotels have such a price list, but they typically phrase it as “if you wish to purchase”, not “housekeeping counts everything”.
So right from the start this left a bad taste in my mouth. It’s the hotel equivalent of showing your receipt on the way out of some retailers: “Thank you for shopping with us. Please prove you’re not a thieving bastard. Have a nice day!”
Anyway, I used the Urbanspoon app to find a random BBQ place and headed for Backyard Barbeque Pit. It was close and had really good reviews on Urbanspoon.
Now … here’s where I have to admit some culpability for my experience at the
restaurant: I was in North Carolina. I knew I was in North Carolina. I am not a stranger to BBQ in North Carolina. And … I ordered brisket in North Carolina.
I know, I know. North Carolina BBQ is about the pig, only about the pig, and all about the pig. But I ordered brisket.
So on a future trip, I feel that I owe Backyard Barbeque Pit a second visit, but for this visit I had the brisket. It came covered in gravy, which greatly confused me. Brisket shouldn’t come with gravy … brisket with gravy is … pot roast?
But, brisket or pot roast, it still wasn’t very good. Fatty and some pieces so veined with fat that hadn’t cooked out that it was chewy. The gravy, or sauce, was good neither as gravy nor sauce, but did manage to cover the meat and preclude me from getting any of the other sauces to stick. So not good.
The sweet potatoes were very good, though, and clearly homemade. I’m not sure if the beans were entirely homemade, but they didn’t taste of a can and were good as well. The hushpuppies, which were more what I’d call corn fritters, not as grainy and sweeter than what I’d call a hushpuppy, were very good.
It was still raining when I finished dinner and headed for the game at PNC Arena.
Carolina was playing Tampa and I am not a Tampa fan, so I was hoping to see the Lightning get trounced. Unfortunately, other than a first period goal disallowed for the Hurricane player kicking it (which I didn’t see a kick), it was all Tampa Bay.
It was raining when I left the game.
Friday
No rain or clouds in the morning, just a beautiful spring day.
After sleeping in a bit I headed for the North Carolina Museum of Art for the afternoon. Quite a few of the exhibits don’t allow photographs, so none of those.
The museum’s made up of two buildings. One (West) for their permanent collection and the other (East) for special exhibits. Most of the museum is free admission, but there’s a charge for some special exhibits – I sprang the $10 for the two that were currently there and started in the East Building.
The upstairs was mostly contemporary art, mostly an exhibit of pieces by two artists, a photographer and a painter. They each did normal, household still-lifes, but were exhibited alternating: a photograph and a painting next to each other.
What would have made this exhibit really interesting would be if they’d each done the same scenes and been displayed together. A photograph and a painting of the same thing would have been intriguing. But that wasn’t the case. Mostly I preferred the painter’s work.
There was an interesting video exhibit. I don’t normally care for video as art, but this was intriguing. It was five actors reacting emotionally – different emotions for each one – and it was sixty seconds of video slowed down to fifteen minutes. Bill Viola, Quintet of Remembrance. Most interesting if you see it from the beginning, not coming in halfway through.
From the beginning, the actors aren’t very expressive, so there’s a sense of discovery as they begin reacting and you realize that they’re each doing something very different. Pretty cool, all in all.
Last upstairs was a gallery of high school work. Framed and displayed with as much care as everything else. The assignment had been to create artwork based on a word or phrase, and some of the pieces were very well done – others were clearly high school, but some I would have been happy to see there on their own merits.
Quite unlike the first of the special exhibits, 0 to 60: The experience of time through contemporary art.
This is one I paid for. Schmuck.
So first is a piece where someone took several clocks, cut them into pieces and glued them back together. Meh, but not painful.
Next were two clocks, side-by-side, but showing different times. Okay, I said to myself, there could be something here, but I’m not sure what it is.
So I read the card and found that the clocks had been installed set to the same time, but went out of synch as the batteries wound down. It’s entitled Perfect Lovers. Ooookaaaayy … could have been something there … but … I shouldn’t have to read the damn thing to understand what the artist is getting at.
Now, next, was a board.
Wait, wait … it’s an unfinished 1”x4”, just like you get from Home Depot and, wait for it … the artist has cut out one of the knots and attached it to a clockwork motor so that the knot rotates like clock hands.
We’ll pause while you catch your breath from that one.
Next: Clock motor with a rotten banana peel attached.
No comment.
There was a hundred foot roll of paper with a line made out of hair down the middle.
An air compressor attached to about thirty feet of hose that inflated and deflated a paper bag attached to the end of the hose.
An artist who saved all of his receipts for a year and then duplicated them on to a roll of paper, by hand, with colored pencils. This was interesting … especially the checks he duplicated complete with MICR routing and account numbers … and signatures.
An exhibit that consisted of a letter from the artist stating that he intended to do a performance art piece consisting of punching a time clock in his studio every day and taking a picture of himself. And a letter from someone stating that he would sign the artists timecards to ensure there was no “cheating”. Along with the timecards and a timelapse video of the artist standing next to the time clock for a year.
Punching a time clock every day for a year is not art. It’s called a job. Get one.
My favorite, though, was the pile of candy. Big pile of cellophane wrapped candy in the corner. The “art” is interactive, in that the viewer decides whether or not to take a piece and staff refreshes the pile from the 175-pounds supplied by the artist.
Apparently there’s “art” at the cash register of every diner in America.
From there I went to the other special exhibit, Object of Devotion, which was a collection of 13th-14th century British alabaster. All religious works, so not thrilling to me, but I guaran-damn-tee that nothing in the other exhibit will be touring museums 800 years from now … so there.
Then over to the other building for the museum’s permanent collection, which spans virtually everything from African folk art to Egyptian to Classical Roman statutes (sans penii, thanks to time and chisel-wielding Popes) – all the way through 19th century painters. Something for everyone, really.
But mostly I was there to see the Rodins – one of the largest collections of Rodins in the country.
The Rodins took up the rest of the time I had for the museum. I left there and headed for the Duke University campus, stopping for dinner at another random BBQ place on the way.
Bullock’s does not take credit cards, but there’s an ATM in their lobby. The lobby walls are decorated with celebrity photos, all of whom seemed to have been happy with the food. The menu is huge – much larger than I’d
expected, including such BBQ classics as quesadillas. That made me a little hesitant, but the place was packed at 2:00 in the afternoon, so I stayed to give it a shot.
Bullock’s does not appear to engage in any pretense that BBQ means anything but pig. Specifically pulled pork. The menu doesn’t even say pulled pork, it just says “BBQ”. BBQ with other things, maybe, like BBQ with catfish, BBQ with Brunswick Stew … but, ultimately, the BBQ part all means the same thing.
There is “sliced BBQ”, if you don’t want pulled, and “ribs”, but it’s clear that the focus is on the pulled pork. I got the BBQ with Brunswick Stew, which came with coleslaw and hushpuppies.
There were no sauces on the table, so I asked if they had any when my food was served. Apparently Bullock’s believes that their BBQ is perfectly sauced as-served, and I got a “look” for my heresy. The server was still smiling and pleasant, but there was still a look … sort of like the look a Borgia Pope might give Martin Luther at a dinner party.
She did bring me a small bowl of a sweet, vinegar-based sauce, though.
The hushpuppies were very good and the Brunswick Stew was excellent, but the BBQ was possibly the best I’ve had since I started these trips. As-is it was flavorful and spicy, tender without being fatty. The sweet sauce was good, vinegar-based as well, and added a nice contrast, so I alternated between the two.
I asked for a desert recommendation and wound up with the “lemon icebox”. Homemade and delicious, it was a good end to the meal.
From dinner I headed onto the Duke University campus, a beautiful place, for a lacrosse game.
Lacrosse is much higher scoring than hockey and, as near as I can tell, the goalie is just there to take up space. Shots seemed to either miss the net entirely or score. Duke won handily, 17-6, and I froze my ass off on the aluminum stadium bench. 40-degrees in April.
Saturday
I started the morning on a sour note, because I discovered that the hotel had charged my credit card over $200. This was a prepaid, Priceline room, so there should have been only a $50 authorization for incidentals, if that. Instead there was a $150 authorization and one for $52.16.
I spoke to the front desk about it and apparently the hotel has a policy of charging $50 per day instead of the $50 per stay that most properties authorize. They couldn’t explain the $52.16 and said they have no record of it.
I then spoke to the manager, because even though this isn’t a charge, it’s quite a large authorization. I really didn’t like the justifications he tried to make. First, that some people smoke in the room … well, fine, but I can smoke in a room on one night just as well as three, so why a per night authorization?
Then he made a comment about prepaid guests and not having any recourse against them. Again, I can clean out everything in a room in one night just as easily as three. And it was another example, like the “don’t steal the towels”-note, of being asked to prove I’m not a thief. Not the experience I want from a hotel.
Around noon I arrived in downtown Raleigh. I’d scheduled a walking, tasting tour with Taste Carolina for the afternoon. While I was waiting for the tour meeting time, there was a Lebanese festival going on, so I watched some performances.
And some halawat el-jibim … I think. It was a sweet-cheese and semolina topped with pistachio.
Served cold, it was sweet, nutty, cheesy and chewy.
Also a sweet Arabian coffee – both very good, and I would have tried some other things from the food booths, but it was time to head for the Raleigh City Museum and meet the tasting tour.
The tour was several miles walking, with a little bit of history mixed in with stops at five different restaurants.
The first stop was Centro, a Mexican restaurant downtown. Like several other places on the tour, this is not a place I would have chosen for myself and, also like the other places, it’s someplace I’d now like to return to for a full dinner. 
Our tasting here was Chilaquiles Verdes … I have no idea what that is. It was a creamy sauce that started sweet and then became a little spicy, finishing with the rich taste of the beef. This dish was tied for my favorite of the tour and I heartily recommend it.
We also got an interesting drink – “hamicha”, I think it was called – a sweet, flowery tea made from hibiscus. I recommend that as well.
Gravy is an Italian place that served us the best gnocchi I’ve ever had. The individual pieces were larger than I expected and perfectly cooked. So often gnocchi can be gummy, but these little tidbits melted under the least pressure and
melded with the sauce beautifully.
The sauce was cream, garlic, spring onions, and spring artichokes, with a hint of parmesan on top. It was sweet and creamy, but the parmesan brought just the right amount of saltiness to each bite. Tied with Centro for my favorite dish of the tasting.
Gravy paired this with a really nice white wine from Italy that I don’t remember the name of.
PieBird sells pies. I like pie. The make both sweet and savory pies, but the tasting was all sweet.
I sat down and looked at the slice in front of me to find lemon icebox … which I’d
I’d just had a pretty good one at Bullock’s. But one of the other tourers suggested we cut each slice into bites and all try each kind, which went over well.
So we each wound up getting a bite or two of: lemon icebox, peanut butter cream, honey (local honey), something that was all nuts, and one that was made completely from sugar. All of them were good, but I think the sugar and honey ones were the best.
Tyler’s Tap Room is a lot about beer. I don’t care for beer at all … it seems like a waste of good grain. Things were on their way to becoming a perfectly good whiskey but went horribly awry … The tasting was in their bottle store, which sells
the regional brews they feature.
I tried the beers they had for us to sample, including one that they infused with other flavors. They take a featured beer and then enhance some of the flavors already present by running it through an infuser system – this week they featured one that they infused with chili, basil, lemongrass, lime, and ginger. We tasted both the before and after versions and I could understand what they were doing. The before-version definitely had the flavors they mentioned and the after-version was much bolder.
I still don’t like beer.
The food tasting was pretzel nachos and pork sliders, both of which were good renditions of typical American pub fare. My pork could have been pulled a little more, as there were a couple large chunks, but it was very tasty. The pretzels were fresh, hot, and tender, and the nacho cheese had just the right amount of heat.
The last stop on the tasting tour was Kimbap, a Korean restaurant almost across the street from Tyler’s. I liked Kimbap immediately, just because of their beverages – any place that goes out of their way to advertise soda with cane sugar instead of
corn syrup gets points from me right up front.
Our tasting here was some sesame greens (which I ate before the photo) and a shrimp fresh roll.
The greens were really good, with just the right amount of oil, which is why I ate them before taking the photo. The roll had a bit too much lettuce for me, but after I took a bit out it was quite good. The sauce wasn’t too spicy and added a lot of flavor.
Also on the tour, we saw the Governor’s Mansion. Nice place.
And a pair of racing Trolley Pubs.
As near as I can understand this, your group pays to rent the trolley, brings its own booze, and then has to pedal around town … drunks are weird.
After the tour, the operators provided rickshaws back to the starting point, with a rather interesting restaurant ad on the back.
From downtown I was back on my way to the PNC Arena for the second hockey game, this one against the Rangers. I got there a little after 5:00, almost two hours before the game, the parking lot was half full and the grassy areas were covered with awnings and grills.
For the Tampa game, the arena had been a sea of red and black, Carolina’s colors, but the crowd pulled out the blue for the Rangers.
There were so many Rangers fans that they managed several “Let’s go Rangers!” chants during the game – they were drowned out by “Let’s go ‘Canes!” after the first few verses, but they didn’t give up. The Rangers’ goals, and there were many of them, got as much applause as Carolina’s one goal did.
After the game I hurried back to my room to catch a few hours sleep before heading home at 5:00 AM, but the manager of the hotel had left a gift for me in the room.
A Weekend in the Garden of Good and Evil
3/28/2013 – 3/31/2013 Miles MPG Average Speed 665 43.5 52 
Driving listening:
3/28/2013 – 3/31/2013 Priceline Retail $ Savings % Savings Wingate By Wyndham Savannah Airport (2.5 stars) $50.27
$40 bid + $10 bonus cash$97.66 ($87.20) $47.39 54% Between the data on biddingfortravel.com and the Priceline Express deals for these dates, I determined there was little chance for a nice hotel on the river for what I’d be willing to pay. The Savannah Music Festival was running on weekends this month and the weather was beautiful, so a lot of people would be headed there.
So I started bidding for the airport at $36 ($46 with the $10 bonus cash). That bid was rejected, but I added zones and $2 twice, to be accepted at $40 ($50 with the bonus cash). There aren’t any free rebid zones for 2.5 star hotels in Savannah, so I could have wound up with a hotel in one of the new zones – and paying too much for it.
But the zones I was adding were on the river and in the city – so I’d still be pretty happy to get something for that price, even for a few dollars too much.
Dining
read my review 
read my review 
read my review 
read my review 
Thursday
Thursday was a travel day – I left work a little early for the 4.5-hour drive to Savannah. After checking into the hotel, I checked Urbanspoon and Google Maps for BBQ places and wound up at Shane’s Rib Shack.
This is clearly a new location in a brand new shopping center and employees were still being instructed on how to use the register and take orders when I arrived for dinner.
I got the combo platter with ribs and chopped chicken (apparently they’ve had some confusion about the chicken, because they were adamant I understand the chicken was chopped and “was I okay with that”). I picked baked beans and macaroni and cheese as my two sides, and the platter, somewhat inexplicably, also comes with two chicken fingers.
My receipt indicated a $0.25 upcharge for the mac-n-cheese, something I didn’t see on the menu board.
So my first impression of the food was that everything except the chicken fingers was cold – not just lukewarm, but cold. The chicken fingers were hot, though, which leads me to believe that the kitchen dropped them in the fryer, then dished everything else up and let it sit until they were ready. This is something they should address, because there’s really no reason for BBQ to be served cold.
The chicken fingers, aside from being hot, were also pretty good. Still not entirely sure why they were compulsory on my combo platter, though, and not something I’m particularly interested in at a BBQ restaurant. If I’d been after chicken fingers, I’d have just gone to the Zaxby’s next door and gotten better for less money.
The macaroni and cheese, looking past the temperature, was pretty good, with a strong cheese flavor. The beans, on the other hand, were nothing I couldn’t get out of a can … and an unheated can, at that, so … ew.
The ribs were good, even at room temperature. They were tender and meaty, with a sweet, sticky glaze that I wish had been represented in the selection of sauces on the table.
Saving the worst for last, the chicken was cold and dry. Now, keep in mind that I like dry chicken – more than being okay with it, I actually do like it. But this was too dry even for me. Maybe if it hadn’t been cold, too.
Friday
It’s a twenty-minute drive from the airport hotels to the Savannah riverfront. I arrived early enough that there was no trouble parking in the lots on River Street and spent some time enjoying the area before the crowds arrived, then headed for Huey’s on the River for breakfast.
Huey’s has several Eggs Benedict variations, and I almost went for the crab cake one, but decided on tomato, with the parmesan garlic grits recommended by the server.
That recommendation was good, as were the grits. I would have preferred a bit more more Hollandaise, as the end result after cutting into the eggs was a little yokey, but overall they were quite good. The tomato added a nice bite of acid to each bite that cut the richness of the sauce and yolk. And the dash of cayenne on top finished each bite with a kick.
I also got an order of their beignets with praline sauce. These would make a breakfast by themselves and should really be shared … I didn’t share.
I was back at Huey’s for breakfast Saturday, described below.
Savannah is still a working port, in fact one of the busiest ports in the US.
I spent the morning browsing the shops and listening to the buskers who’d arrived early to claim a spot on the riverwalk. At the end of the riverwalk I climbed the stairs up to Bay Street.
Bay Street has a different character than River Street. The riverwalk is all restaurants, bars, and tourist shops. Bay Street has a more gentile feel, with moss-covered trees and flowers.
The two streets share a row of two-story buildings, with the second floor fronting on Bay Street running along the river bluff and connected by bridges that span the Factor’s Walk below.
Bay Street has the antique shops and galleries. After a morning of browsing things that I really, really like and really, really can’t afford, I headed for the Georgia Railroad Museum a few miles away.
It’s fascinating to see not only the trains and cars, but a working roundhouse and turntable, as well as the blacksmith and mechanics shops that went into keeping a steam railroad running. All powered from a central steam engine by either piping steam to the work area or a spinning driveshaft and belts.
After the Railroad Museum, I headed for Old Fort Jackson. I learned that the Army Corps of Engineers will be deepening and widening the Savannah River channel to accommodate supertankers, and part of that entails raising the CSS Georgia ironclad from the Civil War.
Once raised and restored, the US Navy gets to decide which museum would get the artifacts, as the Georgia is still classified as a captured enemy vessel. My opinion is that there should be no question that the Georgia should be part of the Fort Jackson exhibits, as she belongs with the other sites that defended the Savannah River.
Tried a panorama shot of the river from the fort’s rampart.
For dinner I tried for BBQ again, hoping to find something better than Shane’s. Smokin’ Pig came up, but Google Maps navigation said I’d arrived at my destination with no BBQ place in site. I pulled into the first parking lot to check the address and see what had happened.
Well … since I was already in the parking lot …
Look, my rule is that if the Universe drops a perfectly good cupcake place in front of you, it’s rude not to get cupcakes. So I did.
Raspberry-almond and lemon-crème, which I had for desert Friday and Saturday. I also got directions to the Smokin’ Pig.
I’m not sure if they actually cook in their sign, but it does get attention. And as I walked through the door to come face-to-face with a shelf full of pig-shaped trophies, I figured I’d finally get some good BBQ.
I got the combo platter with ribs, brisket, Brunswick stew, and potato salad.
Everything except the potato salad was piping hot. The stew was flavorful and the corn kernels in it were still crunchy and sweet. The potato salad had big, tender chunks of potato.
The ribs were meaty and tender, but the winner was the brisket. Full of flavor, not to much salt, and tender enough to pull apart with a plastic fork. Of the BBQ I’ve had in Georgia so far, this is the one I’d go back for.
Saturday
For breakfast I was back at Huey’s for their French Toast with praline butter. This was an awesome dish – the praline butter with little chunks of pecan made for a wonderful flavor. But I have to wonder what they’re thinking to serve it with a single-serve, plastic cup, pull-tab lidded, serving of nasty Smucker’s corn-syrup.
The bolder flavor of a Grade B maple syrup would really compliment the praline. I cannot imagine that real maple syrup would increase their food costs all that much.
I had an interesting surprise when I parked Saturday. Apparently they don’t enforce the parking fees on weekends. Not only was it prominently posted, but when I tried to pay (because prominently posted apparently isn’t good enough for me to notice), the machine wouldn’t take my money.
Seems to me the city is missing out on some income by doing this and I’m not sure why they do. It would make sense to me for them to still charge, even if they don’t have staff to enforce it, and just not tell anyone.
After another walk along the river, I headed away from the waterfront into the city. I spent some time in the parks, watching birds and people.
I stopped by to tour the Jepson Center, part of the Telfair Museum. I was a little disappointed by this museum. They had a touring exhibit of 16th – 17th century Italian religious art, which was somewhat interesting, but not really my thing. Other than that, though, and a great silver collection, there wasn’t much in the building. Possibly they have more at their other buildings, but this was the main, largest, most modern of their locations.
The building has three floors, but there are no exhibits on the first floor. The second floor had part of a children’s exhibit and a small area of “digital art”. The third floor had the touring Italian exhibit and the silver, along with the rest of the children’s exhibit and a closed gallery.
My opinion is that this museum thinks a little too much of itself and not enough of the art. The building’s big and pretentious (and uncomfortably warm). They surely used all the wall space they could for the three story list of donors that winds up the central staircase. I paid to see art, not a list of names.
I’d made a lunch reservation for The Lady & Sons, Paula Deen’s restaurant. Well, a late lunch, as the only time I could get in was 3:00.
This isn’t the sort of food I’d normally be interested in, southern comfort, but I wanted to eat there at least once. The Lady & Sons is not fine-dining, the restaurant reflects the food, southern comfort. It has, possibly, the most friendly staff I’ve ever experienced.
I got the buffet, which consists of fried chicken, baked chicken, short ribs, and a variety of classic southern sides – most of which really aren’t my thing.
The fried chicken, even sitting in a buffet tray, had a crispy crust and was still very moist. The green beans were a bit salty for my preferences, but still good. The sweet potatoes and macaroni and cheese were very good, and those, along with a second piece of fried chicken, sent me back to the buffet.
I also tried fried green tomatoes for the first time, these ordered off the menu.
These came with a sweet onion relish and a red pepper sauce. Pretty good and something I’ll have to try again when I haven’t already tucked in to two plates of fried chicken and sides.
I got a peach cobbler to-go for later that evening, and that ended my weekend. I headed back to the hotel for an early night and earlier morning to get on the road home.
Once I went to bed in Orlando and I woke up in Atlanta. I have no idea how that happened.–A. J. McLean
Miles MPG Average Speed 1138 44 55 
Driving listening:
3/14/2013 – 3/17/2013 Priceline Retail $ Savings % Savings The Westin Atlanta Airport (4-star) $50.96
$40 bid + $10 bonus cash$88.48 ($79) $37.52 43% I spent a lot of time and effort trying to go to Tampa this weekend – a couple Lightning games, a Friday of kayaking, and days at the Tampa Ren Faire. Two weeks I tried every day, but Priceline didn’t cooperate. Successful bids on 3-star hotels were still running $79 / night on Wednesday (3/13), so I tried some other cities.
Atlanta proved amenable, as I won with my first bid of $50 ($40 + $10 bonus cash) for a 4-star near the airport. It’s a side-effect of success with Priceline and BiddingForTravel that my first reaction was: “Damn it! I bet I could have gotten that for $36!”
Even if I did overpay a few dollars for the hotel, though, my total travel costs (hotel and gas) wound up being less to drive the 400+ miles to Atlanta than the 90 to Tampa would have been with this weekend’s hotel rates. So flexibility is good.
Thursday
I left home around 8:00am for the roughly 7-hour drive to Atlanta. A bit less than that for me, because I was staying near the airport on the south-side of the city. Less, at least, to get to the hotel, but my plans for Thursday and Friday nights would take me an hour further north to the suburb of Duluth in Gwinnett County.
The Westin is just off I85 near the airport and has some nice touches like leaf-shaped soaps.
See, this is the sort of little, special touch that makes me feel really, really glad that I didn’t pay full price for the room …
This, on the other hand, might make full-price worth it:
That is the Westin Heavenly™ Shower Head. I now want one of my very own.
I had just enough time to unpack before getting back on the road to head for Gwinnett County for a hockey game between the Gwinnett Gladiators and the Orlando Solar Bears. Once I got to the area I used Google Maps to search for BBQ restaurants.
I headed for the closest and wound up at Jim ‘n Nick’s BBQ. Unfortunately a bit of a chain.
The sweet tea was a bit weak, but this was Georgia and I prefer the teeth-aching brew of South Carolina. The brisket was pretty good – tender and tasty without being too salty. They offered the option of sourdough for the brisket sandwich, was a nice change from simple buns.
Jim ‘n Nick’s offers only two sauces. The regular sauce is pretty good, with a nice balance of sweet and spicy. The other is a spicier ancho sauce.
The best part of the meal was the little corn muffins, which were really good and made me wish I’d gotten more than two.
After dinner I was off to the Gwinnett Arena for the game where I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of a parking fee. Driving there made clear that Gwinnett County is a fairly affluent suburb of Atlanta and the arena touches showed that, with carpeted walkways and premium food options.
Thursday’s game was all offense, ending with the Solar Bears losing 4-5 and the winning goal being scored only three minutes before the end of the game. Although I normally sit high in my team’s attack-twice endzone, for away games I like to move around a bit and chose to sit on the glass for this one.
Friday
On Friday morning I went to Ria’s Bluebird for breakfast. The Urbanspoon app has a cool “random” feature, and this is what it picked nearby for breakfast/brunch.
The place had high ratings on Urbanspoon and their chef is apparently competing on Chopped right now, which gave me high hopes that were only raised by the busy parking lot and waitlist at 10:30am on a Friday morning.
I sat at the counter and ordered the Nutella cream cheese French Toast with an orange juice and sides of bacon and “sweet potato cake” – something that sounded interesting.
The Nutella cream cheese mixture was pretty good – the cream cheese added some tang that cut the sweetness of the Nutella. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to taste much rum in the “Myer rum dipped brioche”. In fact, I got little flavor from the French Toast itself other than burnt – at first I’d thought it was the batter that made it so dark, but, no, it was simply over-cooked. As was the otherwise bland sweet potato cake. Char does add flavor to some foods, not, alas, to French Toast or sweet potato.
I did finish the bacon and orange juice, though. They were good.
After breakfast I headed for Zoo Atlanta where I watched pandas do what pandas do best.
Eat.
Sleep.
And be unabashedly merchandised.
Also at the zoo, in addition to sleeping pandas, were sleeping warthogs.
Sleeping lions.
And sleeping honey bears.
Say what you will about animals in the zoo, but I’ve become more and more convinced that the vast majority of Americans would, should the Aliens ever take over and set up their own amusement parks, be perfectly happy as zoo animals. Think about it.
By late afternoon it was time to head north to the next hockey game, so I once again used Google Maps to search for a BBQ place near the arena. The Honey Pig showed up, so I headed there.
As I parked, I decided that Gwinnett County has no decent BBQ restaurants, since it’s not possible to have good, real BBQ in a building that looks less than a year old. A real BBQ place should have … let’s call it character.
Good, real BBQ should also not be a Korean place where you cook at the table … which is what The Honey Pig is. Damn you, Google Maps!
I’d left time for BBQ, which is all precooked, not for raw food to be delivered to my table and cooked by me, so I had to forego The Honey Pig and head for the arena. So dinner wound up being an arena hamburger … which was actually pretty good.
The Solar Bears lost again, 1-3, so another road trip following the team and seeing no wins.
Saturday
I planned to spend the entire day downtown, so left my car at the College Park MARTA station and rode the train into Atlanta to the Civic Center station. I really like trains and subways … I’m not sure why. I don’t like buses at all, but if I’m in a city with a train, subway, streetcar, whatever, I’ll happily use that for as much of my transportation as I can. At $10 for the day, it’s a bargain compared to driving and parking in a downtown area.
When I got off the train, I found that I was in the middle of the staging area for the Saint Patrick’s Day parade – including the traditional(?) Llamas of Saint Patrick.
And got to watch the warmup of a traditional Saint Patrick’s Day musical group.
Okay, so drum corps isn’t so Irish, but damn they’re fun to watch. The wind was heavy and messed up the sound, but they were pretty good. Right in front of the drum corps was a traditional marching band and I felt sorry them with their tubas, trombones, and pansy-ass flutes. That can’t compete with some good bass drums and competent snares.
I’d skipped breakfast, because I knew where lunch was going to be.
The Varsity’s an institution and proves that burgers and such can be fast, good, and reasonably priced.
For the cost of a typical “value meal” ($6), I got a good quality burger, handmade onion rings, a drink, and peach pie (fried, as god intended). This was the best meal of the trip and the cheapest.
I spent the afternoon at the High Museum. They have a wide-variety of exhibits, ranging from 17th century European to American folk art to African. All of which is good and interesting, except for the top floor … that’s where they keep … <shudder> … the “modern”.
It’s hard to go from compelling sculpture and intricate furniture pieces. (I would so furnish my house with baroque … )
To … well … whatever the hell this is …
Seriously? A whole damn room for this? Ew … just, ew.
I had to go look at the Rodin’s again just to get the stench of that floor out of my eyes.
So after the museum it was time for the evening’s event, which was Much Ado About Nothing at Shakespeare Tavern.
The production was wonderful, which is nothing but what I’d expect of this company. If you’re in Atlanta and have any interest in live theatre, you should make every effort to attend one of their performances.
After the show it was back on the train for the ride to College Park station and the short drive back to the hotel.
Good trip, all in all, but I really need some good BBQ.
Laissez Les Bons Temps Rouler
Miles MPG Avg. Speed 1326.8 42.1 60 
Priceline* Hotel* $ Savings % Savings New Orleans Downtown Marriott At The Convention Center (4-star) $73.46 ($61) $178.08 ($159) $104.62 59% * New hotel data format. Priceline amount includes all taxes and fees paid while hotel amount includes the hotel’s web rate plus an average 12% room tax. In parentheses is the hotel’s base-rate from their website and my Priceline winning bid, respectively.
Friday – Arrival
Within minutes of arriving in New Orleans I learned a Cardinal Rule:
Thou Shalt Learn the Parade Schedule and Keep It Holy
As I blithely followed the directions given by my GPS app toward my hotel, I discovered that someone had dumped a big ol’ party in the way.
Worse, it wasn’t just one parade, it was two – following much the same routes but with staggered start times. The GPS offered the suggestion of cutting through the French Quarter … via Bourbon Street … on a Friday night … during (albeit oddly scheduled due to the Super Bowl) Mardi Gras. Yeah … that would end well.
So I backed and filled my way down the city looking for a way through and, eventually, made my way around the crowds at the starting point of the parade and got to the river. Once there I had a clear shot to my hotel, but the traffic and crowds had turned the ten-hour drive from Orlando into something closer to twelve.
My plan had been to drop my things at the room and then park at the Harrah’s garage down the street, since they offer 24-hours of parking with thirty-minutes of gambling. Since I was going to gamble over the weekend anyway, this was a much better deal than the $31/day the hotel wanted. But with the drive and stress of getting past the parades I decided to call it a night.
So I got a mediocre shrimp po’ boy from room service and called it a night.
Saturday
I started Saturday early by walking into the French Quarter and having First Breakfast at Café Dumonde – beignets and black chicory coffee. Then I spent some time walking around the Quarter early enough to be out before the day’s bread deliveries were brought in.
The GPS turned itself off early that day, so no track, but I walked down through the French Market to the Old Mint, then farther up into the Quarter before heading back through it to Canal and then took a stroll down Bourbon Street.
Bourbon Street was empty, but those who were out … including these guys and their eight friends who passed me … were already hitting the Bud Light at 9:30 AM.
After browsing through some galleries and shops, it was time for Second Breakfast, which was a bacon, egg, and cheese po’ boy at Johnny’s, followed by more wandering through the Quarter.
Apparently New Orleans turns me into a Hobbit, because it was soon time to combine Elevenses and Lunch with another stop at Johnny’s – this time for a shrimp po’ boy that was significantly better (bigger shrimp and not as powerfully seasoned) than the one I got at the hotel the night before.
I caught the streetcar to the cemetery district and spent a peaceful afternoon touring the tombs.
On the way back from the cemeteries, I got a second lesson in learning the parade schedule when the street car stopped and it was announced that the rest of the line was closed and we all got to walk from there.
If you look closely, way far in the distance, past the last, tiniest palm tree, you can see Harrah’s, my destination.
So I went back to my room, showered, and moved my car to the Harrah’s parking garage to avoid further parking fees, then spent the evening at the tables.
After gambling I wandered around the Quarter for a bit, but the average blood-alcohol level was too high for my taste, so I headed back to the room for the night, stopping at Mulate’s near the hotel for dinner.
The BBQ shrimp were average, with more heat than flavor, but the fried crawfish tails were wonderful.
Sunday
The GPS worked Sunday and I wish it had been working Saturday, because I know I covered more ground Saturday and I’d like to know how much more than seven miles it was.
The morning started the same, with First Breakfast at Café Dumonde and then a stroll through the Quarter. Sunday’s Second Breakfast was at Stanley near Jackson Square where I got an Eggs Benedict po’ boy.
Such a simple change to replace the english muffin with french bread, but it made a very tasty difference.
Full of food, I headed for the National WWII Museum.
WWII Medal of Honor Recipients Wall
Monday
Up at 6:00 AM to get out of the hotel and retrieve my car from Harrah’s, then into the Quarter for breakfast – driving this time. Parking was difficult even this early, because much of the parking lots were covered with equipment for the Super Bowl the next weekend.
All of that enclosed by the temporary wall and cones should have been open parking spaces. Even Jackson Square was mostly closed to the public while they built the CBS event spaces for the game.
I finally found parking near the French Market before walking back for beignets, coffee, and a final eggs benedict po’ boy to tide me over for the drive home.
